The Great Mosque of Xi'an: at the roots of China's Muslim community

Although China is officially an atheist country, it has numerous conglomerations of people practicing every major religion in the world.

One of China's oldest religious communities is the Muslims, who today account for between one and two percent of the total population. According to Wikipedia, there may be up to 20 million Muslims in China. Out of China's 55 officially recognized minority peoples, ten are predominately Muslim.

According to historical records, the first Muslims came to China as early as 650, when the uncle of the Islamic prophet Muhammad, Sa`ad ibn Abi Waqqas, was sent as an official envoy to Emperor Gaozong.

Over the centuries, Muslims spread to every part of China, but they are mostly concentrated in the country's western regions. The highest numbers of Muslims can currently be found in Xinjiang, Gansu, Ningxia, Yunnan and Henan provinces.

In China's old capital of Xi'an in Shaanxi province, the long heritage of Chinese Muslims can still be felt strongly in the Muslim quarter, where the first Chinese mosque was established in the 7th century during the Tang dynasty.

A feel of the Middle East

The bazaar next to the mosque evokes those in the Middle East. (Image: Radio86)The Great Mosque, situated behind the Drum Tower (Gu Lou) on Huajue Lane in downtown Xi'an, does not bear the architectural features traditionally associated with mosques. Instead, this place is a unique blend of traditional Chinese architecture and Islamic art. This, however, constitutes an exception, as most of the mosques in western China do incorporate more of the elements seen in mosques in other parts of the world.

A visit to the Muslim quarter in Xi'an feels like a step back in history and to another culture. To get to the Great Mosque, visitors have to pass through a narrow bazaar street, which is lined with small shops selling all kinds of intriguing souvenirs, mainly small decorations and other trinkets, and textiles. At the end of the street, on the left, is the entrance to the Great Mosque.

The first Muslims to settle in the Huajue Xiang district were Iranian, Iraqi and Afghan merchants who traveled along the Silk Road before making Xi'an their permanent home. Today, there are about 60,000 Muslims, mainly of the Hui minority, living and working here. The Great Mosque serves as their place of worship, and the community also runs a number of other mosques, as well as its own primary school, restaurants and shops. Immediately next to the Drum Tower, you will find a street packed with small restaurants serving typical Muslim food.

The Great Mosque of Xi'an has an area of 12,000 square meters and comprises four courtyards. It is one of the oldest and most renowned mosques in the country. It has been rebuilt several times, and the existing buildings date from the Ming dynasty (1368 to 1644). The courtyards are beautifully landscaped and adorned with fountains and pavilions and other features, such as steles and arches with Arabic writing and decorations on them.

The courtyards at the mosque are beautifully landscaped and decorated. (Image: Radio86)In the first courtyard, there is a wooden arch which serves as a sort of gateway leading into the complex. This nine-meter high structure, can be traced back to the 17th century. Three chambers with furniture from the Ming and Qing Dynasties are located on both sides of the arch. In the central courtyard is a stone arch with two steles exhibiting calligraphies by famous ancient calligraphers. The fourth courtyard contains a big prayer hall which can accommodate a thousand people at a time. The prayer hall is decorated with intricate bas-relief woodwork and Quranic inscriptions.

Today, the Great Mosque is one of the most popular tourist sites of Xi'an. It is also still actively in use, with Chinese Muslims gathering there five times a day for prayer. It is the only mosque in China that is open to visitors. Non-Muslim visitors are not allowed to enter to the main prayer hall.

The Great Mosque was added to the UNESCO Islamic Heritage List in 1985.

Address: Huajue Xiang 30, Xi'an
Opening hours: Apr-Oct 8am-7pm; Nov-Mar 8am-5pm. Limited access on Fridays. Prayer hall closed to non-Muslims.
Tickets: 25 yuan (2.50 euros)