Zhejiang diaries: The West Lake

I was certain I was going to like Hangzhou based on all the stories I've heard about it. What I didn't know was that I was going to fall in love with it. I came to Hangzhou after a weekend in Beijing and the contrast between the two cities is just so vast. I still think if you're visiting China, you should see Beijing; but if you're staying for the long haul, Hangzhou is the perfect city to live in.

The jewel in Hangzhou's crown, of course, is the West Lake. If you've never been to China before and the first thing you visit is the West Lake, you'll start thinking that all the news about pollution in China is one big Western conspiracy.

Like its name suggests, the West Lake is located in the western area of Hangzhou's historic center. The West Lake is surrounded by mountains on three sides and is divided by Gu Shan, Bai, Su and Yanggong Causeways into five areas. It's a popular destination both among domestic and foreign tourists.

The Chinese believe that the West Lake was literally a pearl that dropped from the heavens to create a paradise on earth. According to folk belief, the beautiful West Lake was born of the combined efforts of the Flying Dragon and the Dancing Phoenix, two of the most respected mythical creatures in all of China.

Sightseeing galore

I spent almost everyday I was in Hangzhou at some part of the West Lake, yet each visit did not feel like a return. Rather, it felt like hunting for treasure with a map dotted with X's. Each place I visited was like a treasure hidden in plain sight. Even the mass of people that crowded the place only seemed to add to the mystique of the place.

If you're lucky enough, you can catch a glimpse of Leifeng Pagoda as the sun sets. Dusk was my favorite time to visit the West Lake, when the glow of the evening seemed to feather the edges of the landscape. It's hard to write about the West Lake without waxing poetic, but it is only through the language of poetry that one can find words to describe the almost ethereal beauty of the place.

The Broken Bridge is a famous West Lake landmark. (Image: Radio86)The beauty of the West Lake have inspired artists for generations. With brush and paper, they have managed to capture the soul of the West Lake. The best depictions of the landscape are known as “The Ten Scenes of the West Lake” and include

1. Spring Dawn at Su Causeway
2. Breeze-ruffled Lotus at Quyuan Garden
3. Autumn Moon over the Calm Lake
4. Lingering Snow on the Broken Bridge
5. Orioles Singing in the Willows
6. Viewing Fish at Flower Pond
7. Three Pools Mirroring the Moon
8. Twin Peaks Piercing the Clouds
9. Evening Bell Ringing at Nanping Hill
10. Leifeng Pagoda at Evening Glow

Beyond sightseeing

Because of the popularity of the West Lake among tourists, the area around it are filled to overflowing with shops hawking souvenirs. Zhejiang is known as the land of tea and silk, so these two are on the top of the souvenir list. There are also these lace umbrellas that will keep neither sun nor rain away but are just really pretty. A word to the wise, though, these souvenirs come at a touristy price, so try and hold off your shopping impulses if you can.

Some of the best meals I've eaten while I was in China were from the West Lake area where restaurants that seem to be hidden in nooks and crannies offer the best of Hangzhou cuisine. I have very fond memories of devouring Dragon Well shrimps, West Lake fish and my new favorite dessert – West Lake lotus with osmanthus sugar.

Let's not forget the tea houses, of course. Plan to spend a few hours in one of the tea houses with a view of the lake and enjoy the bottomless cups of tea and the seemingly endless parade of dishes as you watch the sun set over the West Lake.

A boat is one of the most popular ways to experience the West Lake. (Image: Radio86)Afterwards, you can catch a performance of Impression West Lake, directed by Zhang Yimou. The show tickets are quite pricey, starting at 200 yuan, but it's definitely worth the price. Watch closely and see what elements from this show were also used at the opening ceremony of the Beijing Olympics.

Getting around the West Lake

One of the most popular ways of exploring the West Lake is by hiring a boat. There are gondolas and paddle boats which are rented by the hour for under 100 yuan. There are also bigger tour boats that take you around the West Lake for a tour of about half an hour.

If you're not keen on experiencing the lake itself, there are golf carts that go around the lake. You just have to hail them and then hop on. There is also a tour bus that stops at all major scenic spots around the West Lake. The cost of the ticket is minimal, but you'd miss out on the local color that makes the West Lake so interesting.

An alternative way of exploring the West Lake area is by hiring one of Hangzhou's public bikes. They can be rented quite cheaply and you can return the bike to any of the designated stations throughout the city.

For me, though, the best way to explore the West Lake is by simply walking. There are maps scattered throughout West Lake park so it's easy to get your bearings. You'll also be able to dip your toes in the West Lake when nobody's watching.