On the Bike

“There are nine million bicycles in Beijing…” sings Katie Melua in her Nine Million Bicycles, and she may be about right. Bikes were once the primary means of personal transportation here, not only in Beijing, but across China. Today, while ever greater numbers of cars pour onto the streets, many remain dedicated to, and even passionate about, cycling — and it’s not just about transportation, anymore.

On the Fly

Gao Yin, 27, a cyclocross cyclist for seven years, says of his stunts and radical downhill runs, “I just love it.” At the age of 13, Gao got his first bicycle and went off to school. It was then that he found bicycles were especially easy for him to manipulate and control. “I like cycling because it is free and exciting. Back then, still a beginner, I really liked bouncing down cement steps. Later, I developed a more demanding preference for high performance bikes, and I became more particular about the gear.” Gao acquired his first professional-grade bike at 20. Just shooting down steps no longer satisfied his more ambitious sporting instincts, so Gao advanced to cyclocross and competitive downhill runs. “I enjoy the bumping and jolting on the mountains. My heart races and I get a sense of achievement. To me, descending at high speed feels like flying.”

In 2005, Gao opened his bicycle shop, Bike Studio, selling, assembling and repairing bicycles. Subsequently, he made many friends with other cyclists, and formed a cycling club, organizing members to train in Beijing’s hilly suburbs on the weekends. “They are all amateurs and have regular jobs, so we work out on weekends and sometimes get into amateur races.” Many award plaques decorate the walls of Bike Studio. “They [his fellow cyclists] are great. Some of them won prizes in China and other countries. One of the reasons I like cycling is that I’ve met many good friends this way.” Gao launched the website www.bikestudio.com to provide a communicative platform for cycling fans, and he is also known in cycling circles for organizing races with other clubs. “Cycling is like a life accelerator for me, letting me fly and carrying my dreams to higher places.”

At eight o’clock in the evening, March 16, 2008, Zhang Weifeng and Wang Tong were enjoying rice noodles in Yunnan Province. “We rode 63 kilometers today. The first 20 kilometers was paved road, but with many stones, so we had to be more alert. From Xuelin Town to Cangyuan County, we did 15 kilometers along the China and Myanmar border… Tonight we’ll stay in the home of Xiao Jinqiang, a young Dai [ethnic group] guy, who we met on the road. Dai people are very hospitable. But if it is the first time you visit their family, you should bring along beer or wine for the hosts,” Zhang wrote in his touring diary.

Zhang Weifeng, 21, is on his way to circling China’s border to welcome the Beijing 2008 Olympic Games. The nine-month ride is expected to cover about 30,000 kilometers. One and a half years ago, Zhang began to plan this tour. Besides physical training, they also learned camping and basic wilderness survival skills. “We started at Tian’anmen Square on December 31, 2007. We plan to ride along the border of the mainland, and come back to Beijing on the day before the opening of the Olympics. In testing our physical strength and endurance, we feel we are part of the Olympic spirit.”

During more ordinary times, Zhang remains a cycling fan. “My major was tourist management, and I really love to travel. Touring by bike is low cost and environmentally-friendly. The most important thing is that you set your own pace. If you want to stop, okay, stop; you want to go on, okay, go. And I can get close to nature to the maximum and get to know local folk customs personally.”

“Cycling, to me, is more than just a pastime,” says Zhang. “The bike is like my partner. We like being on the road, enjoying a beautiful view, in a great mood.”